A frosty wind blew into our faces as our group of 20 backpacking tourists climbed across ledges of sharp-edged ice on the vast Perito Moreno glacier crawling down South America’s continental ice shelf. The crampons attached to our shoes. The region nurtures some of the best bird-watching in North America and an abundance of wildlife. and white residents who spoke excellent Spanish. The Paul Bond Boots shop that has made…